Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Soba Meshi

Mercy, don't I just keep waiting til the last minute. Anyway, here's a map of Japan. Look for Kobe:


See it? Let's take a closer look using this prefecture map (Kobe's in the indigo section, in number 28 -- 兵庫県 or Hyōgo-ken):



Closer...(It's the dark green part):



And even closer!



Okaay, so the last one's a little old. But how often do you get to see a vintage, color postcard of a Japanese city?

Geography slide show aside, what do you think when you hear Kobe? With me its earthquakes. Probably some of you think either that or cow meat, or both. Of course there's a lot more going on there. Like soba meshi (or そば飯), which can also be spelled sans spacebar.

Now, if you have any exposure to Japanese, you might guess that soba meshi is some sort of rice and noodle dish, probably using soba noodles. You might just maybe even wonder if it's a variation on the theme of yakisoba, which would be the more accurate guess.


Origin Stories
Soba meshi's origins are, as has been so terribly common, not clear. One story sets the stage at 50 years ago, in an unregarded noodle shop on the edge of the city. The proprietors of the shop were bored out of their skulls, so they decided to get a little experimental in the kitchen, frying up a mix of noodles and rice. They tried selling it to people, and it was a hit.

But the Hyogo Tourism Guide has it that an okonomiyaki chef created it upon a request by a customer. A Blogger blog titled Hyogo Tourism TID Blog Go! Go! Hyogo says that it was invented by women factory workers who went to okonomiyaki restaurants, and used the teppan grills there to mix rice they'd brought with them with Worcestershire sauce and Chinese style wheat noodles.

It's a good thing I don't have one of those sand-filled stress balls, or I'd probably end up like Dilbert, asking for a new kybard.

Whatever the specifics, soba meshi is a food that Kobe's known for. One book (it's in the References -- and don't worry, you can't miss it), even called it "Kobe soul food". (And the shop's still there, by the way. Dunno the name of it, but it's there.)

Ingredients
The list of ingredients for classic soba meshi is cabbage, onion, yakisoba noodles/chukamen (chopped), rice, and (we all might have guessed) cow meat. Though you'll also see other types, including soba meshi that's just rice and noodles fried together.  And it looks like you use yakisoba sauce as well, though apparently it's not strictly necessary. I've seen people use a powder form of yakisoba flavoring, and at least one recipe that didn't seem to use either, though I only briefly looked at it.

 Now, I have been fortunate to go to an Asian food market for the last couple of weeks, and on one trip got a bottle of Otafuku brand yakisoba sauce. (I've seen a book and a video use it, so I guess I bought a good pick for the "right" flavor. Yay!) Here's what the ingredients list says:

Vinegar, High Fructose Corn Syrup, Fruits and Vegetables (Tomato, Onion, Apple, Carrot, Peach, Date, Orange, Garlic), Water, Sugar, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Soy Sauce, Salt, Modified Food Starch, Spices, Caramel Coloring, Kelp Extract, Yeast Extract, Guar Gum, Kelp.

Sounds healthy, right? ;) I did taste a teeny bit of it... the flavor is a super salty mix of soy sauce, (muted/old) bullion and clove. Can't say I'll be using it as a dipping sauce anytime soon (which might be a big no-no anyway, for all I know), but we'll just have to see how it is when I cook with it.

Recipes
Digging around I found different recipes out there, and so here are some I felt worthy of mention that I looked at.

Here's the first recipe video I ever looked at for soba meshi. (I know it doesn't have a lot of views, but think of it like one of those "hidden" places that can be so cool because it hasn't been discovered yet):



As you can (kinda, sorta barely) see, the chef/host used the brand Otafuku for her yakisoba sauce.

This is recipe that doesn't seem to mention yakisoba sauce or powder, and has different vegetables (including lettuce!), tuna and an egg.

The recipe video below uses yakisoba seasoning powder, instead of sauce... The chef/host/YouTube person's style of presentation might drive you a little nuts because of all the pausing, but I still had some fun watching it.


For you curry lovers out there, here's a recipe called Sobameshi Keema Curry. The soba meshi's on the left, and only has rice and noodles. (The bits on top are parsley flakes).



There's also instant soba meshi, for the convenience inclined. Just add water, give it a zap and mix in the flavored oil:



Yep. Can't say I found it terribly appealing at first sight, but it grew on me the more I watched.

The Other Soba meshi.
Of course, then there's a book that says soba meshi is rice, roasted fish and real soba noodles put in a lidded bowl, and steamed, with broth put on it after that. A few appropriate condiments include Welsh onion pieces and grated radish. It's a cold weather thing, apparently.

(I've seen books in German that mention "sobameshi" -- old books, like late 1800s type books. I wonder if they're talking about this soba meshi).


References:
Surprisingly short-ish this time!

"Chado: The Way of Tea"; Sanmi Sasaki, Shaun McCabe, Satoko Iwasaki; 2002

"A Cook's Journey to Japan"; Sarah Marx Feldner; 2010

Hyogo Tourism Guide: Sobameshi

La Fuji Mama: Spicy Sobameshi

Hyogo Tourism Guide TID Blog Go! Go! Hyogo: Sobameshi & Bokkake!

"The Rough Guide to Japan"; Jan Dodd, Simon Richmond, Sophie Branscombe, Sally McLaren, Sarah Richards; 2008

This last one's only a snippet view, so if you want to see the bit I read, you'll have to type in sobameshi and "Kobe soul food".


Picture Refs
By the way, the map of Japan came from the CIA World Factbook.

The postcard of Kobe has this for it's citation (I picked the MLA version): Art and Picture Collection, The New York Public Library. "Birds ege [i.e., bird's eye] view of Kobe." The New York Public Library Digital Collections. http://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/c260bdb3-9b88-4552-e040-e00a18066d81

The prefecture map and the green Kobe city map both came from (much as I don't like admitting it) Wikimedia. They're supposed to be public domain, have been on there since 2007, and I compared them to Google Maps and didn't notice any super vast differences in borders. So, yeah...

Sunday, July 31, 2016

Tanabata

Orright, I left it late again for this month's post. Here it is, maybe a litter rougher than usual, so expect unexpected edits, including the eventual deletion of this sentence.

(However, in terms of the actual event, unlike so many other of my posts, this one is either late or early, 'cause it's all in how you look at it.)

The kanji for Tanabata. Picture by me. :)





You've probably seen it in one or two Japanese movies, even if the dialogue (original or otherwise) doesn't explain it.  Tanabata (Seventh Night, 七夕), Tanabata Matsuri (七夕祭) or Hoshi Matsuri (星祭 Star Festival) is a sort of Shakespearean/Kurosawan Christmas-y festival that somewhere along the way got kinda mixed up with Obon. The date of a city's festival depends on what the local government wants, and it falls either in July or August, though July's more common. (See why I'm both late and early?)

Historical Stuff
Another version of the first character
of Ryo no Gige. Just wanted to put that
there because all the places I pasted it
turned it into the one you see in the text
on the left there.
Let's start with on of the most common phrases you might hear about Japanese culture: it began in China. In China there was a festival (the Qixi Festival), and this festival passed into Japan in 755 AD or maybe not -- possibly that was the year it was accepted somehow by someone, probably by whoever was really running the government at the time. Or it was the first time it was celebrated. The Ryō no Gige (spelled like so: 令義解), which is from 833-ish AD (though Kokugakuin University said it was the 600s), mentions celebrating Tanabata...  and the myth connected to it may have been around in Japan since the 200s.

Courtiers celebrated it in the Heian period. The women would make what I honestly think is one of the weirdest offerings I've ever heard of: seven on silver needles and seven on gold needles onto which they stuck fruit from mountains (stuff like peaches) and "fruit" from the sea (stuff like dried bream). After that (no we're not done yet!), the kababs had five colored thread attached to them. The colors of the thread were black, blue, red, white and yellow. (I cannot imagine how that could look aesthetically appealing, but who knows?)
Can't get much more Tokugawa-y than a picture of
the tomb of Ieyasu himself!

Of course, after the offerings were done, there was also a party/banquet, with the requisite poetry and music, as well as sky-watching (by the Emperor, though I bet everyone else looked to).

During the Tokugawa shogunate/the Edo period, Tanabata became a gosekku --  one of five yearly made it a gosekku. And I've also seen it that Tanabata's popularity increased in the Edo period. All's I can say for now about this is grawr.
(major) festivals....One place I found said that the shogunate

What was Tanabata about in the Edo period? Making wishes was still a thing, but boys were supposed to wish for a level up on their calligraphy skill, and girls' their sewing skill. Though I bet the rigidity of this depended on the local sociological outlook of your family and the neighbors... and whether or not you just wished for what you wanted anyway.


Kikōden
And guess what? There's actually a festival connected to Tanabata, called kikōden. Or kikkōden -- apparently it's either. This festival is about being a better calligrapher and weaver. Women pray for improvement with both these skills. Some sources will tell you that kikkōden is the name for the Chinese festival that Tanabata came from, or is the name of the story from China. ...You must have to be really patient and open minded to be a historian and remain sane.

The Story
The first thing to remember with this section is that where there is one legend about something, there are many. And probably I've got more than one thing wrong somewhere, according to at least several tribes of historians at this moment in time, but here it is:

First there was the Chinese myth: there was a weaver princess or maid (the star Vega, which is in Lyra). There was also a cowherd/herder/cowboy (sheesh, talk about a misnomer with that last one) (Altair -- that's in Aquila). They fell in love, either because they just happened to meet or because the weaver princess's father, a celestial/sky god, had them get married and it just happened that they found they could get along in that kind of relationship.

But then, tragedy struck in the form of altered priorities: either one or both of them completely stopped doing their work or weren't as dedicated about it. The celestial/sky god did what apparently any benevolent overlord would do: he kept them away from each other, with the princess on one side of the Milky Way and the herder on the other side. He either allowed/allows them to meet only once a year, or they are able to meet (I guess once a year) behind the god's back because he's gone off to a group Buddhist sutra chant.

But, it's not as simple as it might seem. If it's rainy out, then too bad, the two stars have to wait until next year. Because the Milky Way gets too high, that's why. One recounting says that when it gets too high, the man who runs a ferry (and lives on the moon) can't get across (the moon is his boat).

Depending on your book, transformations into stars may happen. Another possible feature you might find is that a bunch of compassionate magpies turn themselves into a bridge over the Milky Way (there's also the version that they'll come if the river's flooded out).

In Japan the Chinese myth blurred into another, Japanese myth. This one involved a weaver named Tanabatatsume (didja catch the tanabata in there?). Which means 'girl of the shelved loom'. It looks like she lived near a river. Now, this next bit is me trying to put together some disparate sources here, just so's ya know: She would, once a year, go into her hut at night to receive a kami/the gods and somehow this would remove impurity from villagers (dunno how many villages there were). One place said she was saintly.

...Unless, of course, the word tanabatatsume could/does mean maidens who weave clothes for a god connected to Obon. (I wasn't entirely sure about what the source I have on this was saying.)

Getting back to the two main characters on Tanabata, did they have names? Sure did. Dunno when they got them or any of the nuances, but names I've seen for the weaver (outside Wikipedia) are Orihime -- literally "weaving princess" -- and Tanabatatsume. Names for the herder include Hikoboshi and Kengyū. (Orihime and Kengyū are common names for Vega and Altair in Japan, in fact.)


Quick Li'l Astronomy Addendum
Around the time of the 7th day of the 7th month, the moon is a crescent. And, most importantly, I expect, Vega and Altair are easy to spot at night.


The When
Tanabata is supposed to fall on the 7th day of the 7th month, lunar-ishly speaking. Scheduling Tanabata nowadays depends on which calendar a particular committee wants to use. If on the Gregorian calendar, Tanabata falls on July 7th. If you're sort of on the lunar calendar, it's August 7th. And a municipal celebration can go on for several days. So if you're going to Japan for Tanabata, make sure you check the dates of the cities that you're going to. Tourist PSA over. You may continue with your reading.

Celebrating It
One tradition involves seting up a bamboo stalk/tree. (According to a University of Virginia page for autumn haiku words, 七夕竹 (tanabatadake) is the name for this stalk/tree/cutting. I don't know if people use this name outside of writing haiku, but I thought I'd mention it.) People write their wishes on poem paper (or tanzaku, kanji: 短冊) and hang them on the stalk/tree/cutting. They also hang paper stars.

The next day, the branches released into a nearby river or into the ocean.  And the pole is put under the eves on the 6th and taken in on the 7th at night. (On that same U of A page, I found a name for this too: 七夕流し or tanabata nagashi. Though it looks like the word applies to sending the tree or the things hung on it down the river...)

Wandering the streets of a city celebrating Tanabata, you might see a certain kind of streamer called a kazari, meant to symbolize a weaver's threads. Fireworks are also a thing on Tanabata. (Hm, streamers and fireworks....)

As you might think, there are traditions that are more place specific. Like using a horse puppet instead of a bamboo stalk/tree/cutting to hang stuff on. (Do they get put into the ocean/river too?) Or lighting lanterns called nanoka-bon ("7th Day Bon". I bet you can guess where that tradition came from. Yep, Obon again.) Or hanging other stuff (dunno what yet) on the bamboo stalk/tree/cutting.


Of course, there's also the Tanabata song:




Places
Two places that have Tanabata festivals that go on for a couple of days include Sendai (In Miyagi Prefecture) and Hiratsuka City in Kanagawa Ken. Sendai's (a revenue booster started after WWII) in August while Hiratsuka City's in July. Akita and Aomori are two other places that are supposed to be known for their Tanabata. Aomori's though is kinda combined with a different festival it has, the nebuta festival.

Even Tokyo Disneyland celebrates Tanabata. They have a themed parade, and I bet you can guess who plays Kengyū and Orihime? That's right Disney's very own Mickey and Minnie Mouse.


Here's a vid on the Sendai city festival, by the way:





References:
For all (or at least some) of your star myth needs.

The Art Institute of Chicago: Beyond Golden Clouds: Star Festival (Tanabata)

"Mythical Thinkings: What Can We Learn from Comparative Mythology?"; Kazuo Matsumura; 1987-2013

University of Virginia Library: Japanese Haiku a Topical Dictionary: Brief Entries: aki : Autumn

American University in Buglaria: The Star Festival Tanabata

"英語でつくる基本の和食 The Book of Basic Japanese Cooking"; 主婦の友社 (editor); 2011

City of Yokohama: Kohoku Ward: Tanabata (たなばた ) 七夕 ”Star Festival “

San Francisco Public Library: *Make a Wish for Tanabata

Shinjuku City Official Website: Know and Enjoy Japanese Culture—Tanabata (Star Festival)

"Man’yōshū and the Imperial Imagination in Early 7Japan"; Torquil Duthie; 2014

"Traditional Japanese Literature: Anthology, Beginnings to 1600"; Haruo Shirane; 2012

The Art Institute of Chicago: Beyond Golden Clouds: Star Festival (Tanabata), 1968

"Frommer's Japan Day by Day"; Mat Alt, Hiroko Yoda, Melinda Joe; 2012

Hobart and William Smith Colleges: Bartlett Family Art Gifted to HWS; Thursday, January 02, 2014

National Institute of Informatics: CiNii: "Hokusai's Watermelon as a Symbol of the Star Festival (Kikkoden) and The Romance of the Milky Way"

"A Popular Dictionary of Shinto"; Brian Bocking; 1995

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Trip to Japan House

Yesterday (the 18th) I was taken to a sort of workshop/demo/guided tour of a tea ceremony at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign's Japan House (which they also spell 日本館). We took the twisty-turny, pretty Japanese-style garden path to get to the right door (it's amazing how much of a nice longish short walk they were able to achieve). Then we took off our shoes, put them in cubbies under benches and those of us who came in flip-flops (like me) put on their temp socks.

An interesting thing to note is that among the displays in the entrance area (which was pebbled by the way) where you take your shoes off were two high shelves. There were all kinds of books on Japan and books in Japanese on them. I don't know if you can borrow them or if they're just for display, but it stood out. Emphasizing it as a place of learning, I expect. And also giving a different level to the sense of place.

Then we went through a quick tour led by a guide in traditional Japanese clothes, sat on the chairs in front of the stage/tea room for a smidge while we were told some more things. After that, it was time to head up onto the tea room, where there was a stage with tatami mats -- and paper sliding doors from the Urasenke (裏千家) school of tea. (Which according to our guide cost $3,000. They have to have been the most expensive doors I've ever sat near.)
Floor plan of Japan House based off of memory, and only slightly inaccurate.
There were also restrooms too.
Once we were all seated, the ceremony/tutorial began. It involved a dry sweet (higashi or 干菓子) and then thin tea (usucha 薄茶). The higashi was a ball of wasanbon, with a diameter of a dime, I would hazard. At first it didn't really taste like anything except that maybe it had been in storage, but I started to roll it around my mouth, and guess what? It reminded me of microwave popcorn butter. Not that that's a bad thing, I've always found microwave popcorn quite tasty. The higashi also didn't melt like I was expecting just pure sugar to melt... I wonder if there was some rice flour mixed in. Or it was just because I held it one place for a bit and it formed a paste, I dunno.

A little faint, it's the wrapper of my higashi.
It's made of a very loosely woven sort of paper.
As for the matcha, it tasted like matcha. Which I also have no complaints about. My bowl (cuz apparently you get one for this part of the ceremony?) was a muted gray with a dark brown (I think) line around the rim, and some crackling on the bottom -- the outside decoration was some strokes of the (I think) same color as the rim. You can tell I'm super observant. Among the various instructions we were given about the right way to drink our tea, we were told it was good to inspect our tea bowls after finishing, including the "tea stamp" -- what's left in the bottom after you drink the tea.

After the ceremony, there was a Q and A, before someone came back and said they had to get the next group in soon. So we looked around at the displays a bit, signed the registry, returned our temp socks (there was a basket), and collected free papers (sometimes bilingual, and at least one time just in Japanese), some of which had been put on our chairs. One of the people I was with gifted me with a a tea ceremony bamboo whisk (chasen or 茶筅) from Japan House's inventory of items. Then we followed the garden path, where a shakuhachi (or 尺八) player was performing using music sheets written in old style Japanese notations.

The path eventually led back to the door that was the closest to where we'd parked. So we went out for "Japanese" food. (Hibachi, to be precise).


Mah bamboo whisk. Very traditional.
There's writing on the back label about how to use it... in Japanese. 


References:
None this time, but here's a link to Japan House.

Japan House | University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign

It's got all kinds of information, so have fun. :)

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

(Not Really) Explanatory Interim Post

Me: Looks at calendar. Then (faintly): "Drat! Drat, drat, drat...."

Sounds of frantic typing.


Coming June 1st to this blog: the desperate search for an (accurate) description of hanafuda.

Monday, February 29, 2016

Sakura-yu

What is sakura-yu/sakurayu, or cherry (blossom) hot water? I'm glad you asked, cuz otherwise I'd be wondering how you got here.... (by the way, how did you get here?)

Sakura-yu is this: take half-open, double layered cherry blossoms with their stems, preserve them with ume vinegar and salt. Place one or two in a cup and pour in some boiling water.  Then drink it. You can eat the flowers too, though I don't know if it's uncouth to do so.


One way to spell sakura-yu. Google Translate calls this
"infusion of salted cherry blossoms".

(In the interest of total honesty, there's some other definitions -- at least one book that says sakura-yu is made with cherry leaves, and two definitions make it sound like you salt the water separately. At least one refers to the blossoms as having been pickled). But most people say that the drink uses salted cherry blossoms, so for now the majority wins.)




I've seen pictures and it can look very pretty -- imagine a pink flower (some pictures show paler pinks than others) as it floats underwater.




See, I told you it was pretty.


Sakura-yu is supposed to be a smidge in the pink direction (which I didn't realize when I made that picture), and since I don't know how to make blue-pink in MS Paint yet, you'll just have to imagine the water's tinted.


What's it taste like? I've seen it described as slightly sweet in at least one book, but I've found three places that say it's salty (and one place says its a bit salty and sour). A recurring word is "refreshing". Probably depends on the how the flower was preserved, as well as the person -- the person's taste, I mean. Probably.


Here's a video that has some captions but doesn't have a lot of actual spoken dialogue. In it, a man makes sakura-yu from scratch. It's kinda funny, and you get to see some nice views of nature and such.





Like various foods and drinks around the world, people have attached symbolism to sakura-yu. You drink it for occasions like weddings, o-miai (a meeting between two people who might want to marry) and betrothals (how common is this in Japan?) One place says it's drunk instead of tea at weddings -- as the book was on Shinto, the author was talking about Shinto weddings, I guess. Suppose I could have poked around to get at the context, but I didn't!



People also drink sakura-yu during springtime as a way of saying "hey, it's spring!" Like here with ice cream, lemonade and barbecue in summer and pumpkin or apple pie-flavored everything starting in fall. To which peppermint-flavored everything is added in winter. (Hey, do we even have any foods for spring? Hmm, I'd never thought about that before...macaroni salad, perhaps.)


Why is it drunk at these times? More than once I've read it's because the cherry's got some auspicious symbolism. It's clearer than tea, which in the context of a wedding transmutes into the couple having a clear (not cloudy) marriage.


It also would be bad to serve tea at a wedding because the tea would make the wedding a joke (it's symbolism does this). I really have no idea with that one.


For some East meets West human interest, and to show you how long sakura-yu has been a commercial product, lemme show you this travelogue written by one Benjamin Robbins Curtis:


"We sit down at one of the many little tables covered with awnings, which are scattered over the summit of the hill, and are served with a most refreshing drink -- a fragrant sort of tea made from cherry-blossoms, called sakura-yu. Our waitress...serves the tea in little cups, wishes us all a polite good morning, and then retires to superintend the manufacture of more sakura-yu."


That, along with the rest of the book, was published in 1876. S'right, that was nearly 140 years ago. It was the reign of emperor Meiji, and princess Kazunomiya would still be alive until the next year.


Other than making it at home (Amazon sells salted cherry blossoms, if you're wondering), you can also get it at certain food establishments -- don't ask me what kind, I haven't found out in particular yet. All I know for sure is that its supposed to be offered as part of eating kuriimu anmitsu at a place in Tokyo named Takemura.



References:

Coming soon!

Saturday, January 16, 2016

Ochazuke

Rice and green tea as a soup. If you're used to thinking of green tea as just a drink, or even as a dessert ingredient, that combination may sound gross. But it is a real thing. You may have even read about it already, like in Cynthia Kadohata's Kira-Kira (which I didn't finish, myself) -- or if you read this blog, you may have come across it in this post.  It's called ochazuke (お茶漬け).

Table of Contents:

Short, Short Histories
Ingredients
Types
How To Serve (And Eat) It
Alternate Routes to Ochazuke
Cultural Facts
References

Short, Short Histories
Though it might seem like it, ochazuke is not an invention of dorm cooking (so far as I know). Nor was it the invention of a medieval-ish wizard trapped in an alternate form of Australia (those who have read The Last Continent know what I'm talking about).

The origin, as one explanation goes, began with the common person. That is,  ochazuke was just something people did at home (like tomato or mustard sandwiches, I guess). They'd put the two ingredients together and add a little nori on top. From there, it just grew in psychological weight until it was considered a dish in its own right. But that's not the only explanation out there...

Another origin story says that the dish was something that developed out of busy employees needing to eat while at work. The Genroku period (1688 to 1704) being the place in time where the ochazuke vendor began.

(And, on a related note, there's a story that the legendary Basho (1644 to 1694), who obviously lived a good chunk of his life in the Genroku period, liked ochazuke.)


Ingredients
Though you can find all sorts of recipes for it, the two pillar ingredients of ochazuke, the only two things you really need for it, are rice and steeped green tea. At least, that's what most of my sources say or seem to indicate.

What do people generally add to it? Weeeellll, let's have a rhetorical question first: what do you put in a sandwich? S'right. All you can really pin it  down to is "food", and if you want to be a purist, "savory food", save for pb&j sandwiches and the random dessert sandwich.

To actually relate what I have read to you, the interested reader/internet surfer (or whoever you may be), there are a number of books that say people only add one other ingredient -- and yes, they tend to disagree on what that ingredient is. Two books said to put some of nori on top, and a third said to use some fish. A fourth book seemed to say that hamanatto -- cooked, fermented, soaked and dried soybeans -- is part of a complete ochazuke.

File:ARS cucumber.jpg
Garden fresh is always best.
Except for, y'know... cheese and stuff.
But, some places have said, it's pretty much whatever, which seems to be true enough, considering the above paragraph. Examples of additional ochazuke ingredients include rice crackers, wakame, umeboshi, nori (again), shiokonbu (salted kelp, shredded), grated ginger, tempura, instant dashi, miso, spinach, sesame seeds, tsukemono (actually placed in the soup), wasabi paste, and fish in various forms of preparation (from salmon flakes to cooked or raw pieces of fish), fish roe... Or any combination of the above thereof. So yeah, basically whatever you think would go with the rice and tea.

But to further loosen the sense of a definitive definition of ochazuke, let's semi-backtrack to the liquid aspect of it. Looks like any kind of steeped green tea will do, both bancha and sencha are common, but I found several books that say you don't even have to use green tea. The replacement? Fish stock. And one book said the traditional tea for ochazuke is matcha, which doesn't seem like it would've been the food of the common man.

Types
And while we're focusing on ingredients, there are different names for certain types of ochazuke. (I assume they were named after the ingredient(s) added into it). To give examples, there's nori chazuke, tai chazuke (tai is sea bream here) and tsukemono chazuke. Considering the propensity of humanity for naming things and getting creative with food, I wanna say that there are probably other types out there, I just haven't come across them yet.

Though the details yet elude me, know that there are kinds of ochazuke out there connected to different parts of Japan. Thus I, the self-styled authority, have spoken!

How To Serve (And Eat) It
It's acceptable to eat your ochazuke hot or cold. The thing is to have it cold in summer and hot in winter, just like soba. As for the ratio, it's about what you'd do for boxed cereal and milk (or milk substitute, if that's what'cha do). To consume your ochazuke, eat the solids then drink the liquid. (Dunno 'bout you, but I'd probably end up bobbing for rice with my chopsticks, if I didn't drink down the tea/broth once in a while).  A definite side dish, or so it looks to me, is tsukemono (漬物) -- though one book said Western pickles work too.

File:Chopsticks (PSF).jpg
Isn't this a chopstick
no-no?
If you want a dash of extra officialness to round out your knowledge of ochazuke etiquette, behold this paragraph! For there came unto my attention an old (1955) etiquette book produced by the YWCA! It was a little hard for me to understand, but I think you're supposed to eat the pickles with the ochazuke, and after they are gone (I assume you're supposed to finish them first?), eat the rest of the ingredients. Unless it was talking about meat being served with the ochazuke... sigh... Anyway, other than the above, the book's rules state that if you feel like shoveling the rice from the bowl into your mouth, go right ahead and do that -- it's okay because that's how you're supposed to do it with ochazuke or rice with water on it.

Now, onto when to eat it. Again, differing sources. While I've seen an emphasis on it being something for later in the day (aka not breakfast), it depends on who you talk to. People describe it as a snack or light meal, and it can be served at the end/near the end of a meal -- even a fancy one, if you use fancy ingredients.

So why not eat it whenever you want! Especially after a meal of fatty foods, with pickled cucumber -- that's a tradition, or so I'm told.

Alternate Routes To Ochazuke
Two roads diverge in Mauchline,
 in Scotland.
For those too tired (or lazy disinclined) to make even basic ochazuke proper, there is a solution! Well, two actually. The first is, of course, to go and find a place that serves ochazuke. Yes, the 300 year old tradition is still going strong -- ochazuke-ya compete with shokudo (a cafeteria type place) and other restaurants. A tonkatsu restaurant, Suzuya (in Shinjuku ward) serves their tonkatsu with ochazuke: that is, the tonkatsu is put on rice, and you, the diner, pour tea over top it all.

The second alternative, which does involve some personal work, is to get yourself some instant ochazuke -- possibly called ochazuke no moto (though I saw one place say furikake) -- as produced by companies like Nagatani-En (famous for its instant ochazuke). This means you buy a packet specifically designated as ochazuke flavoring, put the packet's contents on some rice (previously cooked and placed in a bowl), and add hot water or tea (sources vary). However, these packets, while they come in different flavors like wasabi and salmon, tend to be supremely unhealthy.

Cultural Facts
First up, the common perception of ochazuke in Japan today. Descriptive words you might see should you start your own ochazuke research adventures include homey, country and comfort food. "Just Between Me and You Volume IV" likened ochazuke to chicken soup. It's seen as something that cures colds as well as hangovers.

Zooming in on Kyoto -- where the word for ochazuke is bubuzuke --, I've found several traditions concerning ochazuke. One tradition was/is this: the dish is offered to guests at the meal's end, not so much as a course as a message: go home. I've read that today, in Kyoto if someone wants his or her guest to leave, he or she asks if the guest wants ochazuke, and the guest is supposed to take the hint and make his or her goodbyes. Another tradition in Kyoto is to eat ochazuke for breakfast.

Over on this side of the Pacific it's supposed to be popular among Japanese-American families.


References
For food researcher-ists and other interested parties:

"Seductions of Rice"; Jeffrey Alford, Naomi Duguid; 2003 (sorry about this one, but I did use the information, I think).


You made it! By the way, if you're a dedicated fact-verifier and you spot something, make sure to send me a comment so I can make the post even better.

Thursday, December 31, 2015

The Teradaya Incident

Or how, during the second year of the Keiō era, a woman named Narasaki Ryō saved the samurai Sakamoto Ryōma (or 坂本龍馬).

Well, that's part of it. 

Let's set the scene. The date is March 9, 1866. We're south of Kyoto, in a place called Fushimi, and we're at an inn, the Teradaya (寺田屋). A samurai (and diplomat) from Tosa domain, named Sakamoto Ryōma (he's quite famous, actually) has a room there. This is not something out out of the ordinary, 'cause he has checked in here other times, and is on friendly terms with the inn's landlady, Otose -- a very nice lady, who also liked to help reformers, which Sakamoto is one. (In fact, at this point, Sakamoto has very recently worked to create an alliance between the Satsuma and Chōshū clans).

At this moment, he's in his room (the ume no ma which translates as the plum room -- is this sounding like Clue yet?) with his bodyguard or friend (depends on the book) Miyoshi Shinzō from Chōshū. The room's on the second floor, and the two have basically gotten all ready to just go to sleep. Sakamoto can hear people on the move, trying to be quiet below when....

We now switch to a maid at the inn, who's currently having a soak in the bath.  Her name is Narasaki Ryō, though also known popularly as Oryō . She either is Sakamoto's wife, or sort of girlfriend and/or someone who at some later time becomes his wife. (One place said she got her job at the inn because of being Sakamoto's girlfriend).

It is while she's in the bath that Oryō somehow realizes that Bakufu officers from the Fushimi magistrate were at the inn for a raid/attack. (The magistrate knew that there were anti-Bakufu people at the inn via the grapevine or spies or something like that).

So Oryō foreshortens her bath, goes up the backstairs to Sakamoto and company, telling him about the raid/attack that's in progress. Sakamoto and Miyoshi arm themselves -- the former with a six-shooter by Smith & Wesson (bought in Shanghai by one Takasugi Shinsaku) and the latter with a spear (he also had two swords).

At some point, the fight breaks out (and yes, that's as much detail as I can give you there). During the raid/skirmish/fight Sakamoto's hands get a bit cut up, but he and Miyoshi are able to make a tactical retreat (it was good enough for George Washington, so I don't see why anyone else should have a problem with it). They take shelter in the Satsuma clan's mansion/residence/station that's in/near Fushimi. The End.

Of the incident anyway. As a little addendum-type thing, the Teradaya Inn burned down two years after the attempt on Sakamoto's life. They rebuilt it though, and it kinda memorializes the incident, with a picture each of Ryōma (who also has a statue out front) and Otose in the entrance. Now, the inn's address is located at 263 Minamihama-cho Fushimi, Kyoto.

That same year in the fall, Sakamoto gave an account of the incident to his brother, in writing. If you want to take a look at a translation of Sakamoto's recollection, that is if you want more specific details of the fight, then see the last reference in the reference section below.

(Oh, and if you're wondering why this isn't about the 1862 incident, you are an adept at history. I call this incident the Teradaya Incident because other people have. I know, shameless following! But what can ya do? They're already published.)

References:
Because you don't just have to take my word for it. Take some other peoples' too! ;)
 

"Cool Japan: A Guide to Tokyo, Kyoto, Tohoku and Japanese Culture Past and Present"; Sumiko Kajiyama; 2013

"Seeing Kyoto"; Juliet Winters Carpenter; 2005

"The Satsuma Students in Britain: Japan's Early Search for the "Essence of the West'"; Andrew Cobbing; 2013

"Samurai Revolution: The Dawn of Modern Japan Seen Through the Eyes of the Shogun's Last Samurai"; Romulus Hillsborough; 2014

"Sakamoto Ryōma and the Meiji Restoration"; Marius B. Jansen; 1994